onshape: ISO screw with ThreadCreator and blindholes
About: I am a 21 years old student from Germany who love to make things.
Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :- Hi, Now I'am 17 and here is my new 3D-Printer called Onshape pin slot mate V2.
This printer based on corexy and has the option to use a dual bowden extruder.
So it can print big parts like multicoper parts.
It also has a 32-Bit electronic and diy heatbed so it is optimised for materials, which needs a heated bed.
But my main goal was to build a professionell opensource 3D-Printer.
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If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app Extrusions I bought my aluminium extrusions fromit is cheaper, when you buy 20x1m and cut them at home for your perfect lenght.
Here are the sizes for the extrusions: --------Quantity-------- --------Lenght-------- 12x 600mm 2x 500mm 6x 400mm 2x 430mm 2x 390mm 2x 350mm 2x 335mm 2x 315mm 2x 300mm 2x 292mm 2x 265mm 2x 245mm Nuts and Screws The cheapest shop in germany, which I found out, to buy screws in VA!!!
I'am using Nema 17 Motors and an E3D V6 Hotend.
Here are all the electronic parts which are needed for the Vulcanus V2: ----------Quantity--------- ---------Description---------- ----------Where to buy--------- 2x TMC2100 Motordriver 1x Arduino Due 1x Ramps 1.
There you can also export all the OBJ-Files for your 3D-Printing software and see where they are located in the printer.
You can print all parts with 20% Infill at 0.
To make your own T-Slot nuts, you have to grid the "normal" M5 hexnuts For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 12x 600mm extrusions 2x 500mm extrusions 6x 400mm extrusions 2x 430mm extrusions 2x 390mm extrusions 2x 350mm extrusions 2x 335mm extrusions 2x 315mm extrusions 2x 265mm extrusions 2x 245mm extrusions 2x "45° Corner" printed parts 2x 245mm extrusions 56x M5x10mm Screw I made a picture gallery, where you can see how to build up the main frame with out any problem.
Because it is very hard to explain, where you onshape pin slot mate to drill the holes for the connection between the extrusions, you can download the Fusion 360 File, where you can see in detail where the parts have too be :- For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 8x LM12UU 2x 12x530mm smooth rod 2x 12x400mm smooth rod 4x M4x30mm screw 4x self locking M4 nut 4x 624 Here 4x F624 Bearing 24x M3x30mm Screw 4x M4 Washer 2x "X-end nut"-printed part 2x "X-end screw" printed part 24x M3 Hex Nut 4x M4 Hex Nut -At first you have to insert two M4x30mm Screws to the "X-end screw" printed part.
After that put a washer on one screw.
Than add one 624 and one F624 to that screw.
After that add the washer.
You have to make this step two times.
For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 2x "Motor" printed part 2x "Idler" printed part 2x 12x400mm smooth rod 4x M4x45mm screw 8x M4 self locking nut 4x 624 Bearing 4x F624 Bearing 2x "Idler nut" printed part -At first you have to join the "Motor" and the "Idler" to the 12x400mm smooth rods.
Then onshape pin slot mate build in the Idlers like in the previous step.
If you don't know how to connect the belts this could sd card slot on pc : For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 1x "Z-Motor" printed part 4x "Z-Axis Holder nut" printed part 4x "Z-Axis Holder screw" printed part 2x 16x440mm smooth rods 16x M3x30mm Screws 16x M3 Hex Nut 1x Nema 17 Motor -At first you have to connect the Nema 17 Motor to the "Z-Motor" printed part by using four M3x10mm Screws.
You can connect the parts by using 16x M3x30mm Screws and 16x M3 Nut.
For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 2x LMK16LUU 8x M4x18mm Screws 8x M4 Hex Nut 2x "Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts 4x M5x10mm Screws 4x M5 modified hex nuts 2x 292mm Extrusions -At first you have to put the LMK16LUU into the "Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts.
Then you fix the LMK16LUU with eight M4x16mm srcrews.
After that you insert the 292mm Extrusions to the Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts.
You fix them with four M5x10mm screws.
For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 1x Leadscrew nut 4x M3x16mm Screw 4x M3 Hex Nut 1x "Z Axis Nut" printed parts 4x M5x10mm Screws 4x M5 modified hex nuts 1x Lead screw 1x 5x8mm Axis coupler -At first you have to put the lead screw nut into the "Z Axis Nut" printed parts.
Then you fix the lead screw nut with four M4x16mm srcrews.
After that you insert the lead screw to the nut.
After that you join the lead money win vegas slots to the motor by using the 5x8mm axis coupler.
For this step you need all of the aluminium plates.
For the dimensiions please look at my Fusion 360 File, where you can see the exact dimensions.
You connect all the plates with M4x6mm screws to the aluminium extrusions.
At first you have to connect the 300mm extrusions with the aluminium plates by using M5x10mm Screws.
After that you screw the table to the Z-Axis with eight M5x10mm screws.
I'am using a geared bowden extruder, because of two reasons.
First: a geared extruder has so much more torge than a direct drive.
Second: I want to reduce the weight of the X-Carriage, so I can print faster with less "ghost-lines".
I installed the extruder with an angle bracket and four screws.
You can download the Extruder from For this printer I'am using the Original E3D V6 All Metall Hotend because I want to print more ABS, but when you only want to print PLA, you can buy a Hotend from Aliexpress is better, because it has a PTFE Inliner, which is perfect for PLA prints.
Because so many people ask me in the Vulcanus V1 for a Dual Extruder, I designed a dual bowden Hotend X-Carriage.
So you have the option to use a dual extruder.
To mount the E3D V6 to the X-Carriage, you take the "Hotend clamp" printed part, connect it with your E3D V6 and screw it with three M3x30mm screws together.
You can install the wires trough the "cable channel" next to the "bowden channel".
You have a better view of the wire-channel, by looking at my Fusion File.
I made a DIY Heated-bed, because the MK.
Often they of oz slots code wizard hack authentication less than 100W Power and didn't reach 100°C.
So I build my own out of an old transformator coil.
Which can heat up to 100°C in less than 10 Minutes, which is really fast for me.
At frist you have to mesure your diameter of your wire in my case 0.
After that, you should metioned about how much power your heated bed should generate.
I made a heated bed with 240W, so I need 13m of the wire.
Then, you made a bed of nails, for the wire.
After that, you fix your wires with kapton tape.
To fix the wires to the aluminium plate, you have glue a layer of kapton tape to the aluminium plate, then you can fix the the wires to the aluminium plate by using another layer of kapton.
Don't forget to insert the termistor in your bed.
Finaly, you have to connect the wires with thicker wires for the electronics.
For this step I'am using a wire connector out of pertinax.
To connect the heated bed to the Z-Table, I use three M3x30mm screws with three screws.
You connect them to the table by cutting a M3 thread inside the extrusions.
For this step you need: --------Quantity-------- --------Description-------- 1x Ramps 1.
You build up your own mosfet PCB, because the mosfets needs at least a 5v Gate Voltage and the Arduino Due has a 3.
So these Mosfet are not compatible.
To solve this problem, Onshape pin slot mate made a PCB with optocouplers.
See pictures and PDF to see how I build it.
After that you have to remove the 5V Pin, CAN TX, CAN RX and the DAC1 Pin from the Ramps 1.
Also you have to cut the 5V Line at the bottom left of the Ramps 1.
See pictures where the pins are located.
Also I had problems with my TMC2100 motordrivers, because I have killed some of these by simply moving the axis.
I think this happened because of induction current.
To prevent this, you can simply solder 2 fast Diodes on every coil of the motor.
After these hacks, your Ramps 1.
You just have to connect the green wire with onshape pin slot mate of the black wires.
You can do that with a brigde at your connector, or you can open your ATX solder the black and green wire together and desolder all wires you didn't need.
You only need the Black, Yellow and Red wires.
Yellow has a voltage of 12V which you use for the RAMPS 1.
Black is Ground I mounted the electronics on a sheet of wood at the left site of my printer, Under the sheet you can Install you Powersuppy.
Endstops: X-Axis: You have to glue your Endstop inside the "X-Carriage-Top" printed part.
Y-Axis: You can use one zip tie, to connect the Endstop to the Y-Axis smooth rod.
Z-Axis: You can use the printed part "Z Endstop" to connect the Endstop to the Z-Axis smooth rod At first you have to take a look at my Fusion 360 File for the dimensions of the aluminium plate.
So you know the dimensions, where you have to cut the Alumnium.
After that you add the LCD to the Alumnium plate, you make a "LCD-PCB" behind the LCD, because there you can adjust the contrast of the LCD.
Also you have to intall the Encoder and the "Back-Button".
Once you have screw the Alumnium-Front plate to the Frame, you can remove the safety foil from the alumnium plates.
Hint: Test the LCD before you connect the front-plate with the frame!
Then you have to open Marlin4Due Firmware.
And go under RAmps4Due pins.
There you can see where you have to install the wires from the LCD to the hacked-Ramps 1.
I'am using for my Printer, because it has a great support for hacked RAMPS 1.
You simply have to choose Ramps4Due at the configuration.
Here I will show you, how to install Ubuntu and the Repetier-Server on an Orange Pi PC.
Now Ubuntu should ask you for an Password which is "orangepi".
To get access to the Server you should need to know the ip-address of your Orange-Pi.
So you type into your terminal "sudo ifconfig" and you should see your ip-addresse unter eth0, if you are using a wire connection like me :- So you Type into your browser from your main computer "Your IP:3344".
And you should see the RepetierServer webpage.
But you also want to shutdown you server, so you have to create a XML-File extcommands.
Then you copy this Text from under Adavanced SetupInto the extcommands.
Now you should be able to shutdown and reboot the server from the web-domain.
Hello Vulcaman, I wanted to tell you that I was fascinated with such a fantastic project that you carried forward when you were 17 years old?
I greet you attentively from Argentina.
To whom concernedI have a question about Printed many components are going to be printed with 3D printer for each one.
I am waiting onshape pin slot mate your answer as soon as posible.
Levent ANT e-mail : Just for Information.
Bei der Modifizierung des Ramps wurde ein kleiner aber wichtiger Punkt vergessen zu erwähnen.
Die Thermistoren müssen noch verbunden werden.
Dazu braucht es Onshape pin slot mate von A9 auf A13, A10 auf A14 und Onshape pin slot mate auf A15, siehe Bild.
Getestet mit Repetier Firmware.
Die Pins für die Thermistoren A9-A11 sind dort schon entsprechend vorgegeben.
Vulcaman, vielleicht kannst du das noch hinzufügen.
Danke für den Kommentar.
Sagen Sie mir bitte, wie Sie den Bildschirm LAD2004 verbinden?
Thanks for the comment.
Tell me, please, how you connect the screen LСD2004?
Sorry, habe den Kommentar erst jetzt gesehen.
Fuer das Display wird 5 Volt benoetigt.
Das wird mit diesem Draht bereit gestellt.
Ansonsten einfach auf die vorgesehenen Pins des RAMPS aufstecken.
Eventuell muss man noch den Kontrast anpassen.
Hi, vielen Dank für die Anleitungen und die 3D-Dateien.
Aber leider finde ich keine Druck-Datei für die 45-Grad Parts.
Weder in den Thinkiverse-Downloads noch hier auf der Seite.
Habe ich etwas übersehen?
Danke Jakub from tomorow I'm going to build this amazing project.
You don't have to change any settings in the firmware, because the steps per mm are the same.
Hello, Thanks for sharing this amazing project!!!
Thank you so much.
I have a question please let me know what is the height of printing are on this printer?
This design should scale fine since he used 12 and 16 MM rods.
Hi Shai, That's awesome, I would love to team up for this project.
I am already building the Vulcan max 440 based on VUlcman's design.
But I would like to join your effort and contribute in whatever way I can.
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